For the latest installment of Mateo's Amazing Summer of Travel
™ I bring you... New York! We went to visit Mateo's Apa and Sacha's numerous New York cousins.
Here is the basic itinerary . . . just to give you an idea of what is possible with a nine month old baby!
Tuesday: Drove 3 hours up to Washington State. Had a fabulous time with Mateo's Bubby and Papa, walked around the island that they live on, ate delicious alder-smoked salmon that Sacha's dad made, and enjoyed a beautiful sunset and a peacefully sleeping baby.
Wednesday: Woke up at 5am. Drove to airport over the new
Narrows bridge, which is very cool. Went through security, and got on the plane without a problem. Mateo, bless his heart, slept for the first two hours of the plane ride. The next two hours we watched a movie while he happily bounced around on our laps, and the last hour of the flight went well. We were very, very pleasantly surprised by how well the flight went with our babe. After arriving in NYC, finding Zenaido, and having a little subway adventure, we had a lovely dinner with Sacha's cousins Michael, BJ and Dana. We got to Zenaido's apartment quite late, and I believe asleep around midnight.
Thursday: We started the morning with a subway adventure to deliver some flowers that Zenaido had arranged, which ended up with us drinking a latte at Starbucks. Thank you west coast company! (Sacha has a special spot in her heart for Starbucks, which was once a Seattle start-up . . . )
We then visited a lovely
crepe spot for lunch, and that was when the adventure truly began! We decided to walk from the creperie to the Staten Island Ferry, which is at the very tip of Manhattan. We thought it would be a short walk, but it wasn't! However, it turned out to be one of our favorite parts of the day. Mateo rode in Z's arms and then in the Ergo and napped on and off for most of the time. I wish they would make adult-sized Ergos and that someone would occasionally carry me in one!
We meandered along the water and past the site of the World Trade Center, which is now under construction with the hotly contested new building that will occupy ground zero. It was the first time Sacha and I had been there since 9/11 and we felt quite sad as we looked over the area.
We spent some time there and then continued on through Battery Park to the ferry launch place. I have to admit that I was tuckered out and wanted to go home, but we carried on and ended up being really glad that we took the ferry ride. We went right by the Statue of Liberty and got an amazing view of Manhattan on the way back. And, Mateo, the world's most distractable eater, managed to nurse on the boat right next to a rather intimidating group of teenage boys, so I felt like a breastfeeding superstar :)
Then, we took the hourlong subway ride back to Queens, packed up the car and headed out to Pennsylvania. We were going to a resort where Z's boyfriend works and lives. We all got in naps along the way, which helped us feel mostly human again by the time we got there. Then we met Zenaido's boyfriend, M, who got to meet Mateo for the first time. It was love at first sight! M spent much of the weekend carrying Mateo around the restaurant where he works and introducing him to everyone he knew. Mateo, the world's most social baby, ate it right up. Anyway, then we had a quick dinner and crashed. Or, we wanted to crash, but first there was the obligatory sleep-inducing Ergo ride for Mateo, who hasn't quite mastered the art of falling asleep on his own in strange places.
Friday: This was the beginning of our weekend of relaxation! Mateo woke up at the crack of dawn (7 am, which was 4 am west coast time) and dragged us out of bed with him. We had some fun time playing around our hotel room and then eventually had a leisurely breakfast at the restaurant where M works. We ate peacefully while Mateo worked the room, as he is wont to do. Then we went back to our room and we all took a two-hour nap!
That afternoon, all recharged but still very hot and sticky, we took a short hike into the woods and found a natural pond at the base of a very small waterfall. It was soooo gorgeous. We splashed around and dipped M's toes in and took lots of photos. By the time we hiked back down, it was getting dusky and we were hungry. So Z and M took us to a Columbian restaurant in a nearby town. It hit the spot - filling, tasty and flavorful. Because M speaks mostly Spanish and I speak mostly English, Sacha and Zenaido (who both speak Spanish and English) did a lot of translating and I picked up several new words.
Then we went to a Mexican bakery nearby for pastries to end the evening. Mateo conked out on the way home and slept through the whole transfer from carseat to Mommy's shoulder to bed. The time zone change really worked very well in our favor, because we could go out for dinner and come home late and it was just reaching his bedtime on the west coast.
This is getting very long but I want to get down my impressions of our trip before they abscond into my unreliable and sleep-deprived memory.
Ok, Saturday: Mateo slept until 9 am. Thank you, Jesus. After breakfast and a nap, Z and M sent us down a nearby river on a kayak while they babysat our little guy. We loved it. The current did most of the work for us, except for a brief time when we tried paddling upstream because we thought we had sailed past Mateo & Co, who were waiting with a picnic lunch. We eventually found them and ended up taking Mateo for a little river-wading after we ate. He is a water baby.
He spent most of the weekend teething and feeling pretty uncomfortable. Thank goodness for Baby Tylen*l. We bring it with us everywhere just in case and it came in handy this time. He popped through his third tooth (on the bottom next to the other two) and seems to be working on one of his top teeth. You can see this white lump under the gum and I swear it looks like it's straining to get through. Poor guy :( I bring this all up because he was cranky and looked uncomfortable during our picnic, but once we got him into the water he forgot about being upset and focused instead on splashing around and having fun.
After Sacha and I kayaked the rest of the way back to our hotel, Zenaido and M picked us up with a sleeping Mateo in their car. After he woke up from his very long nap, and Zenaido fixed some of our jeans on his sewing machine (he is a renaissance man - he can do almost anything!), we freshened up and went out for our evening adventure. We drove up to this resort where Z and M originally met. It's a gay resort and is quite the magnet for gay people who want to spend some time away from NYC. We got there and wandered around and they told us all about how they met.
Then we decided it was time for dinner and walked towards the restaurant, which was in the main building. This was when the evening got strange. We went up to the entrance and said that we'd need a table for four, plus the baby. The host looked at us and looked down at his book and said that getting a four-top (restaurant lingo?) at this time (8 pm) was impossible. He said we could sit in the smoking section, but that he didn't have any room at all in the non-smoking dining room. We could see both sections from the entrance and neither one was that full.
We said, well, there's no one smoking in the smoking section right now, so can we sit there? He replied that even though no one was doing it now, he knew people were coming later who
would be smoking. And that we'd have to wait an hour for a non-smoking table. We thought this was very strange, but eventually decided maybe we should go somewhere else. We walked out past the dining room, which had at least two empty tables, and started to speculate about if they just didn't want us there because of the baby. However, we figured they probably just had more reservations for later.
As we had turned to go to the car, the host suddenly came sprinting out the door and yelling to us that "I can do it, I can do it after all!" We thought oh good and went in to have dinner. After we were seated, our waitress appeared immediately and wanted to take our order ASAP. Our appetizers came at light speed, and then our meals right after that. Mateo was a little bit antsy but not really fussy and we were taking turns walking him around. However, it was becoming more and more clear that we weren't really their type of guests.
Meanwhile, the smoking section was still deserted and the non-smoking section was slowly emptying out. As each party left, we expected more hungry gay people to materialize and demand their reservations...but the tables stayed empty. One by one, everybody finished dinner and left, until we were the only ones left in the dining room. After practically having to wrestle the dessert menu out of our waitress's clutches, we ate dessert, paid, and got our stuff ready to go. It had become abundantly clear that the host had just made up the "busy night" and we could only assume that it was because he didn't want us bringing our infant to dinner with us. Sacha and Zenaido eventually deduced that the owner of the place, who had bent over backwards to be nice after we came back in, had figured out what had happened and told the host to go get us back.
Since I have all kinds of privilege in my life, I had never had the experience of being turned away from somewhere like that. I have to say that it felt bad. Especially for something as silly as bringing a well-behaved baby into a restaurant. I get that the resort wasn't geared for kids and all that, but gay people are having babies in droves and it would make a lot more sense if this place tried to adapt instead of fighting it. Anyway, it left a bad taste in our mouths although we had a good time in the end.
Sunday: Woke up early, said goodbye to M, and drove into NYC. We met up with Sacha's cousin, Michael, and saw his gorgeous penthouse apartment in a trendy area of the city.
Sacha takes over the writing:
We toured his two story condo, and outside patios. We attemtped to not give Alayna a heart attack climbing up to the top of the building, taking tons of photos.
Michael and Z went on an unexpected shopping adventure of their own, and bought the most amazing tamales you have ever had. We then headed over to my cousin Elyssa and her fiance Eyal's place in Park Slope where we were treated to wonderful company and a bagel and lox feast!
We then drove to the airport and flew the very, very long six hour return trip, and then one hour drive to Bubby and Papa's house, where we put down a very, extremely tired baby, mommy and mama.
Monday: Mateo woke up bright and early (very not interested in sleep or eating) at 3am (6am NYC time), 4am, and then again at 6:30 AM, when Sacha got up with him. Alayna was able to sleep in till 8:30, and then we got ourselves ready to drive back to home, sweet home!
We had such a wonderful trip, and are also very happy to be back home. We love Portland, our neighborhood and house. We also love all of the people we got to see back east, and are so glad we made the trip out before Mateo got any more mobile!